Tuesday, May 31, 2011

PR2: Day 8 and 9ish.

The first thing we did today was go to Aminta's uncle's place, where we met up with her aunt and uncle, cousin, niece, father, and several other places. The house was beautifully decorated, and had a gorgeous and inviting pool out back that was built entirely by her uncle... who, in fact, still had stitches in his thumb from installing the galvanized roof for the bar next to it. While they caught up I was fed [I forget what it's called]. a fantastic dish of mashed plantains, ground beef, and shredded cheese. Those of you who know me are thinking "What?! He hates plantains." You're right. The plantains had been replaced with potatoes, a move blending Boriquen and Irish palates deliciously.

We stayed as late as we could talking. Well, Aminta talked, I mostly just surprised myself with how well I could pretend to know what was going on. The trick is to watch the eyes and listen for key words (which was mostly "gringo"). Eventually we had to leave to get the car returned on time. Checking my watch we had a few minutes buffer, so we filled the gas tank just enough to move the needle to F. We walked in the front door of the rental place with 90 seconds to spare. After Thursday's rainforest and last night's [i]Pirates[/i] this is becoming a bad habit. Turns out we needn't have rushed, as we had to wait five minutes before anyone showed up to take the car back. I won't say I returned it in good condition, since it was missing an AC knob and you had to put it into neutral at stoplights so it wouldn't shimmy, but I returned it in as good a condition as I rented it.

Another of Aminta's cousins picked us up at the rental place and drove us back to the tattoo shop, where we sat in the car talking for at least a half hour. Eventually we went in, waited another 2+ hours, and mom- you can stop reading now.

I had a picture I drew of a [[Chi-Rho]], a Christian symbol more than a millennium old, that I wanted tattooed on my wrist, the traditional location to mark slaves (and pirates! ((jk, pirates got gallows instead of markings)) ). I expected them to redraw the picture I showed them, but they just photocopied it with the reduce option. The only saving grace is that when Christian traced it onto the transfer paper he cleaned it up. We even adjusted the drawing a little, lengthening some arms while shortening others. Delly even showed up to join the party. We perfected the design, he shaved my arm, and the time came to lay back (I always feel faint when donating blood, so this seemed a good choice) and brace for half a dozen needles to pierce my skin every tenth of a second. It wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. In fact, I couldn't stop smiling. I'd say it definately hurt, but not as much as many of the things you would think of as hurting. Stubbing your toe, grabbing a soldering iron backwards, and standing under decks shorter than you are all hurt more. I never felt even a slight flush of woozyness.

Before I knew it he finished the outline, and went out to stretch his legs, put on some music, and talk to his boss. I admired the lining and smiled some more. Aminta fretted about how angry my mom might get at her. He came back in singing switchup to do the shading. I think the most important trait for a tattoo artist is charisma. Christian set me entirely at ease as we talked. It turns out he even went out to the same movie at the same time in the same place last night. He even admitted to being the jerk who took a flash picture during the credits - which made Aminta and I both laugh (as much as I could without moving my arm). As he finished the tattoo he began giving Delly lessons, explaining how all the things she'd read in books work in the real world. I felt kind of like one of those cadavers they use in medical school, but I didn't mind. I suppose they don't either...

Christian cleaned up my arm, took some pictures, and explained the after-care. Then he asked for less money than I can imagine paying for something that should last the rest of my life, so I tipped him, thanked him, and we headed back home to pack up.

We went back out to La Guancha for a last huzzah. I paid for one of my 5 drinks, and even had to turn some down - neither of those things ever happen. I wasn't even wearing a low cut shirt. (Aminta: "That tattoo makes you look so BA when you pick up your shotglass" Me:" I KNOW RIGHT!") After meeting old friends, chilling with Kike some more, and nearly panicking when Aminta disappeared right as we should have been leaving, it was time to say goodbye to PR. Or rather, it was past time. Delly drove us back to her house at a good clip, we grabbed our bags and jumped into Nelly's car (Yeah, Aminta's two best friends are Delly and Nelly) since she lives closer to the airport. We got to the airport at 3:32 for our 4:00 AM flight. Which was two minutes after they "closed" the flight. Luckily they reopened it for us, and after ducking through a few barriers and being escorted out to the plane at full speed we got to the flight only seconds after the people just before us. To be honest... it was sort of fun. Not that I recommend it.

The flight was... I don't know. I slept the whole thing. Aminta said she watched a movie one and a half times... I didn't. In JFK we walked to our gate and I slept on the floor in a black hoody with only my glistening tattooed arm showing. I hear that Amy talked with the cleaning lady about how homeless I looked. Apparently she offered to poke me with a broom. We even got a delay, which I was happy to hear since I'm an expert on floor-sleeping and only amateur at plane sleeping.

The flight back to Dulles was too short to bother sleeping on, the stewards were rushing and still barely got the drinks cleaned up in time for the landing. I then drove home, taking a slight detour through Ballston (If anyone checks a map they might notice Ballston is not between Dulles and Damascus. I'm not convinced that there is a connection between Dulles and 695 to the North. If there is, I've never found it coming nor going. And there are definitely no signs for it). Anyways, in keeping with our theme we made it to Maryland with less than a half-hour to spare before Ethan's Graduation party where I played a game of "Who will notice first?" Adam (my older younger brother) won with a time of 10 minutes, followed by my uncle at a half hour, my dad at 35 minutes, and my mom took up the rear two hours later with the ambiguous question "That's ink, right?"

Last trip I tried to end with an uplifting sentiment about life. This time I'm going to end on the complete opposite foot with the sole sentence I heard of a cell conversation as I stepped off the plane: "...he's not here, so I think I have to rent a car and drive to his house and punch him in the neck."

(Photo by Aminta)

PR2: Day 7: We do less stuff.

We spent this morning ("morning") at a tattoo shop where a friend of Delly (our hostess) was having a piece done on her ribs. Eventually though, the girls got hungry and we went to lunch so the girls could decide whether they wanted to get their matching tattoo's done there, or head to a shop where Delly is considering working. As we ate, they decided that they would see if the other shop could ink them in the smaller size that they wanted, a size the first shop was hesitant to do.

Using Delly's car (mine was parked in by a fuel truck refueling a station - "You can't start it, it will explode.") we drove to the shop, almost missed it because it was in the process of moving across the street. This place was larger and better lit than the previous shop, and apart from the saturated colors (as opposed to calming pastels) could have been a doctor's office. To top it off the artist said he could easily do that size and came down to the price that the first shop had quoted them. A few pictures of his previous work sealed the deal.

We all went to one of the back rooms with our new best friend, an artist named Keko (short for Christian) who had just come back to PR from a few years in Lancaster. There the girls took turns as he transferred the stencil to each of their arms and then traced the blue text beneath their skin with black. I was impressed with the precise and delicate lettering and with the attention paid to cleanliness. Each girl saw everything was wrapped with fresh cellophane, misted with disinfectant, new gloves worn, and of course new needles, handles, ink, and lotion. In fact, at the end he wiped the medicine off each girl's wrist to take a picture (see below) of them all together, and then when he went to reapply the lotion he pulled out a new pair of gloves for each wrist.

The girls were delighted with the work ("..this too shall pass..." which is ironic if you get meta but not morbid with it), and since they took only cash I paid for the ink. (Ladies: Please don't worry about it. Think of it as a thank-you for a week of letting us crash / driving us around) and we headed out to pick up some groceries.

Later tonight we visited Aminta's brother which involved playing a 10-person game of phone-tag to get directions to his house; turning what could have been a 5 minute walk into a 20 minute drive. But all's well that ends well, and he not only recognized me as a Farrell, but teased me for not visiting him the last time I was in Puerto Rico. We chatted on his porch until we had to leave if we wanted to get to our movie on time.

We got to the theater 2 minutes before the new Pirates movie was set to begin. Luckily, there were enough advertisements and trailers that even with the line we found seats before the start of the movie. If anyone is wondering, the movie was great. The 3d was well-done but didn't add much to the movie. However, watching a movie filmed in PR while in PR, about Ponce de Leon in the city named after him was a fun experience.

We ended the night going out to La Guancha to visit Kike (the friend who took us out in Old San Juan) at his bar. It was a nice little place, but unfortunately right next to the karaoke. Which is too bad, since the other end of the boardwalk was playing dubstep. The girls showed off their ink and we traded our company and help cleaning for a couple free shots, chilling with him until closing time when the karaoke thankfully stopped. Kike then put on a CD by his translating cover band, featuring hits such as "El Ojo de el Tigre." A great way to end the night.


(Photo by Aminta)

Thursday, May 26, 2011

PR2: Day 6: We do stuff!

2 hours ago, we got kicked out of the rainforest.
1 hour ago, I took the best picture of my life.
Now, I'm in the starbucks right next to my favorite hotel.

Tomorrow I'll fill in the details.



We're pretty slow at everything. The plan today was to go to El Yunque, go to a restaurant or something in Old San Juan.

After a few cryptic emails to my folks at home I had new credit card info, and when I handed this to the woman behind the counter she handed me the keys to my Grand Prix! Woo! But when I got on the road I found it less powerful than expected... When we went to pick Amy's friend I popped the hood and found it had the 4 cylinder from the Grand Am in it. In America (Amy hates it when I say "In America,...") the Grand Prix has a v6 in it. I still have a third a liter on the Yaris though, so I think it is an upgrade...

We picked up another friend, finally got on the road, and hustled our way across the island. Once we got near the park we were overcome by hunger and finally got breakfast at Wendy's. At 4:30. We can be slow at anything. We finally got to the jungle at 6:02. The visitor center closes at 6. The ranger station closes at 6. We followed the signs to the falls to find out they close at 6. But the gate was open, so...

The falls were pretty cool! Maybe 75 feet down a cliff face, surrounded by massive trees taller than they should be. I scrambled up the rocks to the falls because, you know, I could. That was half my Yunque goal! The second half was to find some giant snails. As we walked up the road, past some giant 8" bamboo, we found three of 'em just chilling on the guardrail. They were easily 2" across, and the one pair of them couldn't be bothered. I took a few pictures adjusting settings and you can see them briefly look towards the camera and resume chilling.


Then the rangers showed up and told us we had to leave. They locked up the gate behind us and we headed back to San Juan after checking an overview or two. The girls didn't know what they wanted to do, so I decided it was time to visit my favorite hotel! We got out to the decaying boardwalk that overlooks the rock the and the girls (in sandals) decided it was probably not their night to climb. I (in sandals) borrowed a cell phone and set off scrambling across the rocks.

There was one advantage to not having the girls with me: Instead of stumbling over the rubble filling the first floor I scaled a window-grate, walked across a sketchy roof, and navigated the simpler cleaner second floor to the stairwell. From there it was 12 flights of stairs to fantastic views on the roof, made even more stunning by the darkness that also made me nigh-invisible, allowing pictures from closer to the edge.

I borrowed a trick from an old exploring partner and shrunk the aperture to a pinhole. This forces a longer exposure while bringing more things into focus, which combined with the lens I borrowed from Jeremy gave me the aforementioned awesome picture (at the bottom of this post).

I found a chair 10 floors up overlooking the sea, walked out on a balcony, and headed down before my ground-crew could start to worry. I checked in with them (in Starbucks), got some quarters to recharge the parking meter (which was expiring as I did so) and set off, leaving them in Starbucks. Out on the street, i felt like running, so I ran the first mile. Then I grabbed a beer at a convenience store and walked to the car and back to Starbucks, pretending not to drink in public.

We talked until Starbucks closed, then Amy called up her ex-roommate who was getting out of work and we made plans to meet and go to a restaurant. On our way back, I slid my car key into the cell-phone pocket on my back pack's strap while stepping into a puddle. The filthy water made me forget everything else I was doing, and 5 minutes later I realized my keys weren't in any of my pockets. We retraced the last half-mile looking for the key. After I checked every pocket on my clothes and on the back of the pack I gave it to Amy to check. As she looked through it a feeling of horrified relief washed over me as everything clicked when I saw the lone pocket on the other side of the pack.

In the end it worked out, we got to the car the same time Amy's friend arrived in Condado, so we just followed him and his girlfriend into Old San Juan and to a bar with amazing chicken quesadillas.

After the bar, a live band, and phone-calculator bill-splitting we headed home, so I'll end with a conversation we overheard heading back to the cars:

Girl: I can't make out with you, you don't even know my name.
Boy: Of course I do, It's Jessica.
Girl turns to her girl-friend: Is that the one I told him?
Boy: WHAT?

PR2: Day 5: We don't rent a car.


TL;DR: I don't rent a car, then we play dress-up.

...


We wrote today off from the beginning, so that was good. I had a vague goal to get back to the gazebo with a tripod so I could fix my shot of the city, but I have a few days still here. We went to breakfast/lunch at Denny's, but this time I had a full battery instead of an empty one, which gave me time to copy/paste and update my blog.

After lunch, we went out to rent a car from the place Amy had called. They even ran out of what we had reserved, upgrading us to an older (but faster) Pontiac. But my Discover card wouldn't go through. I called the company and they said that it was replaced by the other card that I ordered, even though I checked the box marked "In addition / both active" and not "New Replacement." Which I could understand if my old card hadn't worked in every gas pump I've used for the last year. No problem, I'll use my visa! My visa card is back in MD, and no one is home to let me know the number. I'll pay cash! We walk to the ATM, I try to take out the maximum amount which will just cover the security deposit+rental charge: "You have already reached the maximum daily allowance." I tried two lesser amounts with the same result before setting off to the next atm. At this one there was a man in front of it on his phone with the bank... the ATM had charged his account and returned no money. Strike two. We get in the car and drive to another ATM that clearly says that I'm allowed to take out the amount I need. Sweet. Withdrawl from checkings! "Insufficient funds. Your account has a current balance of $0." It doesn't. Withdrawl from savings? "Your account has been suspended for suspicious activity."

Tune in tomorrow for round 2.

The girls spent the evening playing dress-up. The girls are older, the makeup expertly (but still thickly) applied, the princess dresses replaced with leather boots and corsets. Makeup perfect, hair styled, they recruited me as a photographer until I filled both my 4 gig cards. Nothing brings a sparkle to a girl's eyes like 4 types of eyeliner and a fancy lens.


Wednesday, May 25, 2011

PR2: Day 4: Around Ponce

In absolutely no surprise to anyone, we slept until 1 in the afternoon. Which was probably a good thing, although it did give us a late start on the day. Accordingly, we scrapped our earlier plans to go out to caja muerta? I think that's what it's called... it means coffin-island. Instead we showered (with towels!) and went out to Denny's to meet our hosts boyfriend (not that he wants to be called that).

We stayed through dinner teasing the new couple with inventive innuendos, avoiding the rain, and folding paper cranes (Denny's has really pretty placemats) before we got bored enough to set out to go see the giant cross that overlooks Ponce - sort of a Rio de Janero wanna-be. As you can see, it's kinda ghetto, but it doesn't look bad from a distance. Since it was a Tuesday night, nothing was open, but that also meant no one was around, so we just hung out in the area looking over the city. Slightly down the street was an old, empty, house across from a mansion... the mansion had cameras that covered the main entrance to the old house, but left the gate to the side uncovered. I was up for jumping fences, but a reach through the gate found the lock mechanism, which let the girls come with. We took a few good pictures in a gazebo overlooking the city... but without a tripod they're only half as good as they could be. I am getting better at being still, so there's that. Maybe tonight? Maybe... we're bad at planning though, so maybe not.


After we left the overlook (with zero police interaction. Go team!) we went down to the center of Ponce, which was also mostly closed... but the ice-cream place was open! (Go team!) While we ate we looked at the fountains and the sand-castle (in town square for Carnival) before going back to our host's for wii and rockband.






PR2: Day 3: Welcome to Ponce

As soon as we got up, we heard a child screaming. MA! MAAAA! Our host didn't seem to even notice though. Turns out it's her parrot, and she wasn't blithely ignoring child abuse.

So we all showered, two of us drying off with spare clothing, and went out to get breakfast at the local mall. Nelly (who drove us home from the concert last night) joined us, and not much remarkable happened. It was kind of fun getting looks for being the only gringo in the mall, and surrounded by Amy, her cute friend, and her cuter friend.

After killing time in the mall we went back to Nelly's to watch a movie and play Rock Band. As they were actual musicians, I was severly outclassed. I had fun anywaY, and even saved the day by being the only person who knew 311's lyrics.

We had planned to go to La Guancha, the boardwalk, by 11, midnight at the latest. At 2, we made it. We met up with Amy's ex-boyfriend (a tall clever boy who teaches english). I took a few pictures, I let Amy try to use my camera (easier said than done in low-light, but this one -> turned out well in an artsy kind of way) and we wandered down the boardwalk and to the beach until the mosquitoes chased us off. Which is just as well. My Spanish nosedives past around 1:00 am. We swung by walmart on the way home (for towels!). Then, instead of going to bed, we talked about relationships until sunrise... I was too afraid to check the time.








PR2: Day 2 San Juan to Ponce

Today I avoided the rain and read. The plan was to go to Condado, spend the day reading, and meet up with Aminta to head over to Ponce.

However, everytime it dried up enough outside to go read on the beach, it started to rain again. Finally, at around 4:00 it was finally dry enough to go out. And by the time I was half way there it began to rain again. Luckily, it only spat a little and after a brief pause under a bridge it was fine. So I spent a couple hours reading on the wall in condado, watching boogie-boarders... But then it rained, and it was decided that I'd have an early dinner. Stromboli and Chardonnay. Yes, Ray, I know that isn't the matching wine.

After a stretched-out dinner (and the end of my Star-Wars book) it was dry enough to go out again. I snapped the shot at the end of this post, and read Diary by the light of the setting sun. I still had two hours until I met up with Amy, but there were security lights on the apartment building that probably confuse every turtle hatchling in a mile-long stretch of beach. Luckily, I am not a baby turtle, so they were pretty convenient for me. It did try to rain again, but I hid in a bus-stop, then walked to the Radisson where I started my last trip to PR to catch a cab to the Coliseo, where Aminta's concert had just let out.

I met up with her / her friends, then we drove home to Ponce. On the way, we saw a vehicle laying / moving a line of plastic jersey barriers by eating them up and spitting them out the back as it drove along. If I was driving alone, I would have gone back to take a picture of it... I'll try to google it for you. The rest of the trip (all of the trip for the non-engineers) was pretty non-eventful. I learned some Puerto Rican (to scratch = escratchar. Car = carro. Not coche. Spanish class was useless). After arriving at another friends house in Ponce, we talked until the early hours about everything. Or rather, the girls talked. I crashed out on a sofa around 4.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

PR2: Day 1: "Eventually" means 3 weeks.

I never said where I was going back to, did I?

I woke up @ 4.45 in order to be on the road by 5. The goal was to be at the gate an hour early for my 7.30 flight, and I was stalled by only two things. 1: My mom appeared in the kitchen like a ghost when I turned my back, and 2: The dulles exit isn't labeled. It's on the "Upcoming exits" sign, but when you get there it just says as anything but "Exit 45." I blame construction - even Damascus merits labels on its exits... After I got to the gate at 6:22. So after a few u-turns, parking, security, and a mad-dash to my gate, I missed the boarding cut-off by 2 minutes (in my imaginary hour-ahead game. You know, to keep things interesting).

The flight to ATL was fine, I read Cut in it's entirity, finishing as we taxi'd to the gate. The flight to SJU was, after an initial delay from the take-off-queue, quite similar. I read almost all of Go Ask Alice, interrupted by a rather uncomfortable nap. I think I was supposed to learn how terrible drugs are, but my main take away was GIRLS ARE CRAZY. Srsly.

SJ i sthe same as it always was. Cabbies still don't know where the hostel is (but by now I recognize the way), the hostel has a number of the same people in it, and great breezes criss-cross El Morro. This time, though, the wind had shifted, so I had to move to the other side of the point for my RiNaEP. So I watched jet-ski'ers and dolphins instead of boogie-boarders.

For dinner I almost ate at the same Italian place as my last two visits, but last night's ravioli encouraged me to get something different, so I walked the 2 miles to Condado, where I had "blackened" (meaning generically spicy. I've had blacker tuna-melts. Which is perhaps more a reflection of my oven-skills than anything) Mahi-Mahi and flirted with a waitress from Clarksburg (a town ten minutes from my house.)

Since I'd already walked 45 minutes, I was only 20 minutes from my hostel! So I spent my cab fair on ice-cream and walked. Fantastic idea, everyone should try it at one point or another.


Sunday, May 1, 2011

Day 24:Fin

Today was a slow day. Got up late, had grocery-store breakfast before splitting a taxi to the airport. At the airport I had some mushy candy that had melted in my pocket and read before getting on a plane to Philly. We flew out over Old San Juan, but other than that the flight was over the ocean and a pretty boring 4 hours.

In Philly I (surprise) read and had dinner, before getting on a 23 minute flight to BWI (I timed it), and.... that's all. Like I said, a slow day.

So, lets do a summary instead. Puerto Rico is beautiful. I might be back three weeks from today.

And a better summary, by the numbers:

2 countries,
3 pickuptruck bed rides,
5 states,
7 islands
9 flights
11 islands if I count generously
11 boat-trips
18 1/2 books
24 days
599 pictures
4000 miles, 100 of them by foot
4500 dollars

I found that I am most happy when I am traveling, not when I am arrived, and I've come to realize that the same sentiment can be applied to life: The journey itself is the true destination.