Friday, March 1, 2019

China - Friday Night




Jeremy and I met in the hotel bar for a whiskey to decide whether we should visit the club next door. Apart from an incredibly bizarre motto on the outside wall ("WITH YOU - ALL ARE JUST DUSTS") we know nothing about this club. Even the internet couldn't shed any light on it. We headed over around 9pm because we're in China and we're trying things and we're gonna try a club, dammit. We got metal-detectored, walked past the cover charge desk (I think, I have no idea what the desk was), and into a room of loud Eminem music, literally 20 staff, and no guests. Oh, this must just be the entry lounge, we'll get the elevator up? down? to the actual club. Nope, that's a coatcheck, and that's a restroom. This is it. Most of the staff chose this moment of confusion to swarm us, and none of them speak English. We communicate that we want beer. They bring us to a table and some couches, we sit down, they show us the menu.... it's all massively overpriced. A corona is ¥500 (~$80 usd), and budweiser is twice that. That can't possibly be correct, right? So we order two! They ask for ¥1000. I claim to only have cash, and not nearly that much. They need credit card, and need ¥1000. After a lot of back and forth we apologize and walk out, laughing.


No idea who this guy was, but he was also drinking in public...
Once we're outside we light up a cigarette (when in Rome...) and discuss plans for the rest of the night. While we talked a promoter tried to convince us to go back to the club, and hands us flyers - the ¥500 is for a case of coronas. Ooooh. So almost tolerable. But there are no locals, no one dancing, no one needs a case of coronas, and no one likes Eminem. Besides which, we'd already decided it wasn't for us. So we went to a local 7-11 knockoff instead! Spent 5% as much and got a couple beers and new cigarettes (ours were terrible). These are flavored nano-cigarettes! One is menthol, as expected. Jeremy makes me guess the flavor of the other. I'm guessing different fruits and berries with no success... turns out there are two flavor-bubbles, one for red wine and one for white one. WTF, lol. It's awesome. We wandered to the courtyard of the local mall and wandered about drinking, admiring the glowing art installations, checking out bonsai, and generally people-watching. It was way more fun than we would have had in the club.

After we'd finished our drink, we went shopping (browsing) in the mall. Since we're in the banking district it's generally overpriced luxury goods, though I did find a stuffed animal for a Christmas gift. After we finish browsing the mall we continued back to the hotel. Nature forced us to detour to a dark park to recycle some beer, and suddenly we were good to keep going! We started another drink and crossed the river to admire the bridges, and then - purely on impulse - went up a staircase that lead to the city wall!

Unretouched, just a great looking bridge.
We hiked along the city wall, examined the built-in ancient temple, and then did a sketchy climb where the city wall suddenly lost 10 feet of elevation. We continued hiking along the wall and down to the river, before we cut up a random alley (pictured at left,) to circle back towards our hotel. The road lead to a memorial park! For some dude* from the turn of the last century, it had a statue and an impressive structure and all sorts of engravings. It's magical to wander into another century like that with no forewarning. After admiring the courtyards we found the city wall again and headed back to the hotel - stopping briefly in another super fancy hotel (mostly to avail ourselves of the facilities). All in all we did about 6 miles... in dress loafers, so my feet were quite angry at me.

The gate in the city wall. Amazing find to stumble upon.
*Editors note: This dude is actually Dr Sun Yat-sen, the founding father of the Republic of China. He was the first president after the overthrow of the Qing empire. The sweet memorial building is actually the site of the former presidential palace, which was shelled by artillery during the revolution - nearly killing his wife. You may have heard of his protege - Chiang Kai-Shek - who ruled china for almost 50 years after Dr Sun's Yat-sen.

China - Food

In December, I went back to China for work. I'm not going to do the every-day-gets-its-own-post thing, because nobody wants to read "I went to the factory, we went to eat weird food, we went to the hotel" a dozen times. Instead, I'm going to extract a few excerpts from various letters I sent during the trip. In retrospect, I should have taken way more pictures.


"Survived my first really Chinese meal - although I did skip the frog because there were just too many organs.  The first things I ate was a little fish. The dish was mini fishes and mini shrimps, intact. So I look down in my bowl and this little guy is looking up at me... I mentally shrugged and threw the whole thing in my mouth.  Yolo."

"Fish, duck, pork, beef, rice... just entirely too much food, and most of it a bit weird. I told my coworkers I felt like a small child, just putting things in my mouth and seeing if they are food or not. Usually yes, but sometimes it's bone, tendon, fat, at least one blood vessel.. they have a different standard for 'meat' over here. Still tasty and still fun though!"

Pigeon, a regular and appreciated fixture of our meals. 
 "Our host turned to us and said, with the utmost earnestness, 'This is ass meat'. I smiled politely, and asked 'Oh?' like I was pleasantly surprised and curious, and not like I'm suppressing the urge to laugh hysterically. Jeremy correctly guessed that it was donkey. In case you're wondering, ass meat is served cold, but is otherwise generally pretty good. We also had giant goat drumsticks (amazing), dumplings, noodles, little goat ribs, steak, cabbage, just so much food. So far this was the best meal yet."

"Dinner tonight was some great pigs legs, and a super sketchy fish head... that was smoked and actually delicious.  I started the trip asking what things were before eating them. At this point I've given up, and eat whatever they put in front of me. If I'm still curious afterwards then I'll ask what it is."

Hot pot, the one meal to take revenge on me. Not sure if it was the hot peppers or my impatience cooking the meat.

"We drove across the city, and started going down alleys. I assumed the driver was trying to take a shortcut and got lost. He was! Then we went down another dead-end-alley which wasn't a mistake. We walk into an open concrete restaurant, past a handful of fish tanks, to a table in the back. Then they started bringing out shellfish. Razor clams. Scallops. Mussels in all sizes. Giant shrimp.  Crabs. After trying oysters in the states I'd written off mollusks - what a mistake. It was amazing. I ended the night with a full stomach, a pile of skeletons on the table ahead of me, and a smile on my face."

Near the end, but before I ate literally all the shrimp on the family platter.

"'I know I can get you to try anything if I try it first and you how terrible it was' - Jeremy, after he convinced me to eat a whole peppercorn.  They are so spicy they make your mouth tingle. Not because they are hot, it's a weird feeling similar to anesthetic without numbness. I'm really not sure what to compare it to, it's just weird."

(Jeremy's) shot of the Wild Animal Restaurant
"Dinner tonight was a 'wild animal restaurant' where all the dishes (fish, chicken, and inkfish [squid]) were wild animals that they hunted. Decent food, super amusing owner who kept trying to speak american while he hung out and drank beer with us. It had a neat location down a dirty road, under a few highways, on a small lake. I love the anachronism of driving under a futuristic LED billboard to a restaurant that looks and feels like it's in the middle of the jungle and the 1950s.  Oh, and the squid was great, amazingly tender."

By this point I shouldn't have been surprised by how good this fish was. When we asked if he had any more he yelled out the window and ten minutes later his daughter brought in another. Would not surprise me if she hooked it on request.

"Today we had the typical 'omg I can't believe they eat that' Chinese food. Definitely edible, but I can definitely see why dog has not caught on in the states - almost every other animal I've eaten is better."

Before,  Jeremy meeting our meat.
"Last night in China, so we had the whole team out for a fancy dinner, which included snake! Snake is (still) great, the gall bladder is not. I spent ten minutes trying to get Jeremy to eat it, so I felt like I had to when he offered it to me instead. It's almost sweet, but it has such a terrible aftertaste... "

And deliciously after. (Jeremy)