Day 22: This is the way the journey ends, not with a whimper but with a bang.

After a late-night "They have bedbugs" email from my mom, I spent last night sleeping on top of the covers, lights on, waking up every hour or so to check if the dirt flecks around me had legs. When I finally woke up, the feeling that I was nearing the end of my journey was stronger than ever, but there was a ferry to Jost Van Dyke and back every hour... so I decided to end strong. I left my suitcase with the Jolly Roger Inn, walked to the ferry, and caught a boat out to the island.

It started off well, riding on the back of the boat, admiring the harbor and spotting the rock that stymied my round-the-coast hike... but then the wind kicked up, which kicked the waves up, and in perfect synergy the bowspray blew back onto the rear deck with every wave. I, and the other tourists were toughing it out until a particularly drenching burst of water, at which point the girls went in and the guys hung out just behind the cabin

There's two main beaches on JVD, Great Harbor and White Bay. We were dropped off in Great Harbor, and I walked the short (but hilly) hike to White Bay for breakfast/lunch. Amazingly, with each island I visit the water gets even more aquamarine and even more vibrant. I wandered along to a bar that had a good sandwiches and chatted with old tourists while I ate. Turns out I chose the Soggy Dollar bar, which is somewhat famous in these parts - though he didn't know which island it was on the St Croix, the guy who saved me from walking into the ghetto told me about it. The bartender was pretty cool, he had a dozen holsters (paring knife, leatherman, camera, flashlight? pens... and I don't know what else) on his belt, and a marlinspike around his neck.

Then I hiked and boated back to Tortola (and took this picture: Mmm, dieselwater) got my stuff, caught another ferry back to Charlotte Amalie (where they had five cruise ships docked), and then caught a 7pm flight back to San Juan (the only ticket available). Instead of spending $350 dollars on a ticket from Tortola, I'm spending 370$ all told on flights, taxis, and boats... but its so much more fun this way.

Our plane was a Cessna 402, a little 10 seater (including the pilot). I got an exit row! Which doesn't really make any difference. That's two wasted exit row seats in a row. Anyways, the flight was beautiful, and I learned that cruise ships - at night - look fantastic from the air. Everything the old gambling paddleboats tried to be, only with a bit more tact. The best description would be floating, glowing jewelry boxes.

In San Juan I caught a cab to my hostel. The cabbie didn't know where it was exactly, but I was prepared and had my GPS all fired up for just this eventuality. The hostel was full! A long stretch from the 3 guests last time. Luckily, the owner offered to let me crash on a couch and pay half price, a sweet deal.

Then I hung out with the other people - mostly Canadians - in the hostel. We drank a few beers, went out to a pool hall till it closed, split a bottle of wine and danced in a liquor store / bar crossover shop (I avoided it when I could, and thankfully I had a bit of swing for when I couldn't), and smoked cigars in lawn chairs outside on the street with locals till about 3am. It was great.

We ended the night with a short climb and a great view from the top of a parking garage. You know, end on a bang and all that: